Features

United Kingdom - As I was walking to St. Ives....

by Nick Hawkes

For my first time on the furthest part of the Cornwall penninsula I was blown away by what I would call, as a designer, the cultural and inspirational capital of the south west - St Ives. A mecca for art and artists, culture and sea and sun worshippers alike, the town oozes charm and traditional seaside values for families, surfers, sunbathing and relaxation and for places to go and see on a rainy day, of at least one which you will see.

The town
Surrounded by scenic rising hills all around, the first thing you notice as you come into the town is the view, as you look down towards "the island" it is quite breathtaking and draws you in. Once in the town the harbour front and the old town streets are awash with pubs, cafes, modern and traditional restaurants, fish and chip shops and of course the traditional Cornish Pasty Shop which is a must. They are really very good and will keep you going throughout the day.

If you wander along the long harbour wall when the tide is high and fishing boats are finishing for the day you might be lucky enough to see the opportunistic seals on the scrounge for fish. They have been there for years and are a regular attraction.
If you like beaches you are in for a treat with two golden sands east and west side of the town, Portminster and Portmeor. The water can be strangely cold on the harbour side and it takes a brave soul or a seal to take a dip in the water for longer than 10 minutes.

The real adventure is the meandering through the narrow streets of the old town and the island, the green area at the very end of the town. Every different corner reveals something new, a cafe, art gallery and some exquisite floral displays outside the pocket-sized, yet comfortable stone dwellings. Barbara Hepworth's House, Sculpture gallery and garden is a mini adventure with something very different from the norm.
Then you continue to the Tate Gallery on Portmeor Beach. A hint of the big city brought to Cornwall but focussed with interest. St Ives and the International Avant Garde – a waterfall of famous artists, sculpturs including Piet Mondrian, Pablo Picasso, Georges Braque, Max Ernst, Alberto Giacometti, Naum Gabo, Jackson Pollock, Henry Moore, Mark Rothko and many other surprises including some special seasonal star attractions.

Visiting advice
During the height of the summer it will be busy, no, extremely busy with tourists, and manic at times, but if you try to visit outside of school holidays and bank holidays, either early June or late September season, you will probably be lucky enough with the weather and rub shoulders with the enthusiastic locals, a real pleasure.

Final Thoughts
There are many interesting cultural experiences which wash over you and through you in this ancient town. Although well explored you can really take your own individual perspective from the town. It means something different to everybody because of its diversity and its rich culture. Well worth a visit.... definitely during school term time.

Plus Points: Too many to add, with a highly interesting variation of things to see and do in a small but "rich in beauty" area of the country.

Minus Points: As with many places in Cornwall vehicle parking is difficult in the town. There are various car parks on the edge of the centre, but walking up and down hills might well be required, but there are dedicated disabled spaces dotted around. If you are staying in a hotel or guest house, a number of them seem to have dedicated parking spaces.

Getting there: Down the M5 to Bristol and keep going, Exeter and keep going, Plymouth and keep going. If you get to Penzance you've gone too far but you are close enough. If you take the train, London Paddington to Penzance and a short journey back up the branch line.
Staying: There are many hotels, guest houses, B&Bs and self catering places and some camping and caravan sites. It just depends where you want to stay in the town and if you want to rub shoulders with families, surfers or just relax in a holiday apartment. First Stop the St Ives Tourist Board, no question: http://www.stives-cornwall.co.uk/

Getting Around: If you can use a car, or hire car like many foreign visitors do, there are too many things to see. However the railway line is close to the centre of town and buses and taxis are also very accessible to get you out of town.

Don’t miss: The Eden Project (a must for everybody), St Michael's Mount, Goonhilly, Porthcurno including the Telegraph Museum and The Minack Theatre, Newlyn Harbour has many boats and interesting craft, the beautiful village of Mousehole and Truro City Centre and Cathedral is a nice surprise too.

Photos (Nick Hawkes)

Epidauros Bronze and Portminster Beach

The old town cobbled streets