Features

Malta - At the Heart of the Mediterranean

by Cheryl Bouwer

As I step off the plane onto Maltese soil, the Mediterranean sun welcomes me, and the humdrum of London grows instantly more distant in my mind.

Situated right in the middle of the Mediterranean, and only 97 kilometres (60 miles) south of its larger neighbour, Sicily, the sunny island of Malta has witnessed many historic battles, in part as a result of its enviable location. Just three hours from the UK, Malta and her sister islands, Gozo and Comino, are perfect for year-round getaways.

We decide to start with the youthful side of Malta and head for the popular resort of St Julian’s. In the past few years, the island has played host to the MTV Isle of Malta and Creamfields music festivals, as well as famous DJs, boosting the already popular clubbing scene. As we get into the taxi, our driver Joe flashes a welcoming smile, greets us with the traditional ‘Merhba’ (Maltese for ‘hello’), and then rattles on in perfect English. I notice he’s driving on the left-hand side of the road, too, which makes the island just that much easier for tourists to navigate.

Our hotel is in the heart of the buzzing resort, opposite the scenic Spinola Bay. During the day, I watch fishermen hard at work in brightly coloured luzzu, or fishing boats. As the sun sets, they begin to head home, and the scene changes from one of serenity to one of pure revelry.

Hedonists spill out of the local bars, dine al fresco at the many restaurants near the water’s edge, and dance the night away to an eclectic mix of pop, house, funk, trance and (although less often) traditional Maltese music. Swaying to the beat outside one of the local haunts, Fuego’s Salsa Bar, with Piña Colada in hand, I soak up the Mediterranean atmosphere.

The following morning, after a hearty breakfast of English staples and Maltese pastizzi (traditional ricotta-filled pastries), we make our way out to experience more of the island’s culture and traditions. Trundling through the rugged countryside in a bright Maltese bus, and enjoying feeling like one of the locals, we head for the capital city of Valletta.

The looming bastion walls of the Grand Harbour greet us as we drive in and the views across the harbour are simply exceptional. Wandering around the old streets of Valletta, the air thick with the history of the Knights of St John (their stronghold was here), we come across a cluster of shops and restaurants leading to a local market. I splurge on bright Maltese glass trinkets, and a bottle or two of local liqueur, whilst taking in the magnificent architecture. Valletta - ‘the city built by gentlemen for gentlemen’ - has enough to keep hard-shopping ladies busy, too!

Further inland, the walled medieval city of Mdina, aptly called ‘The Silent City’, invites visitors inside its mystical gates. The warren of narrow sandstone streets whispers its ancient secrets as you walk by, and you can be forgiven for expecting to see a knight in shining armour come hurtling around the corner. We stumble upon a quiet little café on top of part of the old city wall, overlooking the rolling green countryside. Here, we sip on kinnie, a refreshing drink of bitter oranges and fragrant herbs.

No trip to Malta is complete without a visit to her smaller and quieter sister island, Gozo, or to the famous Blue Lagoon of Comino, situated snugly in-between Malta and Gozo. We opt for a full-day trip aboard a wooden sailing boat named ‘The Fernandez’, which takes us right up to Gozo’s steep, rocky shores. When The Fernandez anchors in Comino Blue Lagoon (pictured) for a few hours, we all dip ourselves into the iridescent waters and snorkel alongside the marine life.

The ferry from Malta to Gozo takes just 20 minutes, and exploring the island on a local bus is lots of fun – especially when it comes to spotting the one and only traffic light! In the capital, Victoria, there’s an ancient citadel that overlooks Gozo with sweeping views of Malta. Lying on the terracotta-coloured sands of Ramla beach, with nose buried in a good book, I find the perfect way to spend a lazy afternoon. There’s also the Azure Window (pictured), a natural rocky wonder carved by the ocean's ruthless waves, and the site of one of the best dive spots in Europe.

Climbing back up those aircraft steps all too soon, as I feel the sun stroke the back of my neck. I know I will return to Malta, to ‘the heart of the Mediterranean’. Right now, though, London is calling, and remains – for the moment – my final destination.

Get there: Several airlines offer direct flights from London to Malta, or you can fly to Sicily and take a ferry to Malta.

Editorial from The South African, The Only Newspaper for South Africans living abroad: www.southafrican.co.uk

All images courtesy of www.visitmalta.com