Features

Italy - Cinque Terre: the past in the present on the rugged Italian Riviera

by Cheryl Bouwer

Cinque Terre, the name alone conjures up the romantic ambience of the quintessential Italian Riviera. Nestled neatly in the North Western part of the stylish Italian boot, this magical corner of Italy oozes charm and a certain rustic panache.

The name ‘Cinque Terre’, Italian for ‘Five Lands’ are a cluster of picturesque fishing villages perched uniquely along the Ligurian coast. Scenic hiking trails link the five picture perfect towns of Riomaggiore, Manorola, Vernazza, Corniglia and Monterrosso al Mare and offer breathtaking views out to sea. This Unesco World Heritage Site is the ultimate hiker’s paradise and nature lovers delight.

Arriving with a group of three friends, all of us eager to partake in some hiking, swimming and a spot of relaxing, we make our way by train from the nearby town of La Spezia. As we snake around the corner, the striking views emerge into sight and conversation dies down, as we drink in the splendour of the Cinque Terre before our eyes. Consisting of brightly painted terraced houses perched precariously along the narrow and rugged cliffs these towns are the perfect place to escape for a few days and soak up some traditional Italian atmosphere.

Two more stops and our train chugs into the town of Vernazza, which will serve as our base for the next few days. Grappling my backpack as we head down the short flight of steps from the small station, the charming atmosphere instantly rushes to my head making me feel giddy with excitement! Our rooms, which form part of one of the local guesthouses ‘Evas Rooms’, are conviently situated along the main strip heading towards the town square and the ocean. ‘Welcome, welcome’, bellows the friendly owner Angelo in his thick and charming Italian accent, as he ushers us towards our rooms.

After settling into our humble yet comfortable rooms, the rest of the afternoon was spent by the guys trying to source a local pub showing the Lions vs South Africa rugby match, and exploring the town of Vernazza. Needless to say South African ruby was not top of the agenda in this laid back part of the world, so a few local beers and a gelato or two later and the disappointed lads perked up! Wandering around the town, exploring the nooks and crannies and the little boutiques dotted all about, followed by a refreshing dip in the sparkling ocean rounded off a perfect start to the holiday.

The onset of evening saw a five minute train ride to Monterrosso al Mare, with its stunning coastal views, to enjoy a quintessentially Italian dinner: fresh anchovies on bruschetta, mouth watering pesto lasagne, all washed down with the famous local tipple ‘Sciachetrà’. Notably, this region is the birthplace of pesto and is one of the best areas for cultivating wine, and is a must for anyone with a penchant for the finer things in life.

Awakening to the morning chatter and cheerful sounds of locals, I crane my neck out of my window and breathe in the fresh sea air. The early morning scene unfolds before me - elderly Italian ladies hanging out their brightly coloured washing, men tottering down to the local grocers to get their morning paper, and some folk sitting gossiping on a town bench sipping their morning coffee while watching the world go by. Not content just to observe the world from my window, we headed off for our first hike of the Cinque Terre. (A handy three day travel card allowed full access to the hiking paths and local trains).

The stretch from Vernazza (pictured) to Corniglia makes for one of the most scenic (but not particularly tough) routes, with rugged terrain and plenty of rocky steps. Midway through the hike, just as thoughts of a desert-like oasis start playing tricks on your mind, a very welcome travellers' bar mirages into view and offers respite from the heat. Fellow hikers converge in the popular bar and swap travel adventures and notes over a cold beer or two. Continuing along the path, the coastal route brings Corniglia, perched on high, into sight. Maja, the leader of the pack, spots a sign for a swimming cove, down 200 stairs and we gleefully bound down to our newly discovered swimming hole! Immersed in the turquoise waters, the tough hike fades into the past, forgotten, that is, until it's time to make our way back up all the stairs!

The walk from Corniglia to Manarola was easier on the legs, culminating in a majestic reward: the postcard image of Manarola (pictured) and its array of colourful houses tumbling towards the sea and embracing a small natural harbour. The welcome noises of excited children emanating from the sea below amidst the clinking of glasses at the bustling cafes leant a distinctly peaceful and happy air to this particular town, making it one of my personal favourites along the Cinque Terre.

Moving on from Manorola, an easy going twenty minute walk takes you along the famous ‘Via Dell’Amore’, the 'Walk of Love', made famous by the many marriage proposals along this romantic coast. A plethora of padlocks poked out from every conceivable tree en route, symbolizing the locking in of one's love.

Slightly weary, but very satisfied after a full day’s hike, my limbs welcomed the train ride back to Vernazza. That evening, sitting in the square munching on my wonderful pizza, and watching the locals, it occurred to me that I could easily have enjoyed a few more weeks or even a lifetime in this part of the world! This well-kept little Italian secret is tucked away from hordes of tourists, and it's a perfect hideaway from all the madness of "civilisation". My advice to all those wanting to escape the clichéd tourist traps is this: make your way along to this heavenly slice of Italy while it remains an untouched paradise. Oh, and remember the all-essential backpack and a good pair of walking shoes!

Get there: Fly to Genoa or Pisa, trains run from there.

All photos: Cheryl Bouwer