Features

Italy - Lecce the unknown gem of Italy

by Emilia Waters

When you had lived in Italy for more than twenty years and travelled it widely and passionately like me, then you are spoiled for beauty. So, when I was asked to contribute to this site as a writer,why was Lecce the first place that leapt to my mind? There must have been a reason; and there is: Lecce is a true gem. Whatever you read about it, whatever you see on photographs, nothing prepares you for what you experience when you are actually there.

It lies deep down on the heel of Italy and it is Mediterranean in its heart, being just a few kilometres away from both the Adriatic on one side and the Ionian sea on the other.

We drove to Lecce from Rome and arrived there in the early evening. It was the end of October and raining and it was already dark, so we left the luggage in our central B&B and went to look for a trattoria. My method of finding one never fails. You just go to the first shop, bar or newspaper kiosk and ask the locals to recommend you a place where you can eat well. It is almost embarrassing how helpful the southern Italians are, they will go to all lengths to help you, often take you there personally. Once again, the recommended one was good value and we had the delicious local sausage and broccoli with an excellent Primitivo house red from a nearby vineyard.

The early morning brought a surprise. Once out on the ancient polished white stone pavements, the contrast of the crystal blue sky with the white stone of the surrounding architecture was striking. Our B&B was right next to the Cathedral Square – la Piazza del Duomo. From there it was a walk of marvels with piazzas, palaces, churches, balconies ornamented and decorated in a beautifully crafted white local stone, called “pietra leccese”. Spanish dominion contributed to the splendour of Lecce that we know today and the Lecce style Baroque is a unique and individual form of art and architecture that was developed between the 16th and the 18th century. The style, influenced by the Spanish plateresque was nevertheless unique and was disseminated by two great local architects, Giuseppe Zimbalo (1617-1710) and Giuseppe Cino (1644-1722). At the beginning it was the decoration of noble palaces and churches, but soon the baroque exuberances, the floral motifs, the mythological animals, the friezes and the coats of arms also triumphed on the private buildings. There are also remnants of its ancient Roman past, a theatre and an amphitheatre.

During our evening walk we realised that there was a fair of local products in lively progress along the main streets. We bought a case of Primitivo and a can of olive oil to take back home with us. The producers are very enterprising and they will ship abroad, too.

From Lecce as a base, you can go to the local beaches which are only a few km away if the season allows it, or make little trips to nearby Otranto, Magli, Santa Maria di Leuca or the splendid seaside town of Gallipoli.