Features

Germany - Nature, Naturism and the variety of the Bavarian capital

by William "Gobbo" Dobson

For those who have never been to Germany, preconceptions about the place, the people and the culture can sometimes act as a barrier. However, within minutes of stepping off the plane into Munich, any that I may have had were instantly broken down.

In fact, the notion that Germans lack a sense of humour was quashed before this by the man sitting next to me on my Easyjet flight. In a dry and sardonic manner, he pointed out that although it wasn't exactly first class travel, at least it was better than Ryanair, where, as he joked, you even have to insert a Euro to use the emergency exits.

Munich confirms a lot of the stereotypes of Germany, notably its efficiency and its conservatism, but it does so in a completely positive light. Trains and trams run smoothly and on time, the streets are clean, and there are no traffic problems that you come to associate with most big cities. But what is most surprising is the beauty of the place. Nicknamed Toytown, you can see why, as you step into an almost surreal juxtaposition of modernity and what appears to be medieval Gothic architecture - it is so well preserved and in perfect harmony that one gets the feeling that it wouldn't look out of place in Disneyland.

The pedestrian area around Marienplatz is the best example, with the Rathaus-Glockenspiel portraying an almost life-size medieval joust every day at 11am. Just nearby is the brilliant Viktualienmarkt, a selling everything you can imagine from horse sausages to decorative pumpkins (it's a German thing!) And the interest certainly isn't confined merely to this area. Follow the example of the locals in this incredibly bike friendly city - a cycle ride around Munich will continually excite and surprise.

There is also an astonishing amount of open space, with a prime example being the Englischergarten, which, at 3.7 km2 (1.4 sq mi), is one of the largest urban public parks in the world, bigger even than New York's Central Park. A combination of park, meadow and forest, resonant with flowing streams, and on summer evenings (rather surprisingly) bongo drums, it's a lovely place to go at any time of the day. There are also, as one might expect, a vast number of Biergarten to chose from, where you can enjoy (only) local beers or an Apfelschorle (apple juice and fizzy water) for those unfortunate enough to want something non-alcoholic.

The real secret to enjoying Munich is to get out of the centre. The River Isar plays a prominent role in this, and a cycle ride along it to Waldwirtschaft is a must. It's a fantastic Biergarten about 10kms outside of the city, serving typical and delicious Bavarian food, such as pretzels and schweinehaxn (pig knuckle, which is a lot tastier than it sounds), with live jazz music played each evening against a stunning backdrop of seemingly endless forest. Along the way, one can stop for a dip in the river. Clean, cool and refreshing, it's a welcome change from the dirty and diseased rivers that we seem to have in England. Don't be surprised by gravitationally and aesthetically challenged naked people along the way (pictured - again, it's a German thing). It takes you aback to start with, especially the sight of animated discussions between overweight octogenarians wearing nothing but flat-peaked caps, but you quickly get used to it! Unfortunately, the nudity does not seem to extend to younger, better proportioned and good-looking swimmers - although one can live in hope.

One of the other joys of Munich is the surrounding area, ranging from rolling hills and forests, to stunning lakes with mountains seemingly rising from their shores. Achensee (pictured), just across the border in Austria is a perfect example, and spectacular in summer, when you can take the cable car up the mountain for an incredible panoramic view of the lake below. Just be careful of the odd wasp, with a penchant for the female breast - as my friend discovered! Back in Germany, Chiemsee Lake is home to King Ludwig's largest castle (based on Versailles) on an island in the middle (it was he who built the castle Walt Disney based his on!). A great place for water sports such as windsurfing or sailing, for those more interested in relaxing you might merely want to rent a 300 watt (yes, watt!) electric boat and slowly drift along in the sunshine. Closer still to Munich is Starnberger See, a popular lake for swimming, with the breathtaking sunset dipping below the trees only slightly marred by the ubiquitous naked person...

A perfect mixture of culture, beauty, and calm without being boring, Munich has that rare quality in a city, that when the sun is shining, it seems to sparkle across the buildings and instil a feeling of contentment. There is everything you could want from a city break here, complemented by the fantastic food scene, which is not limited to just delicious yet heavy Bavarian fare.

Visiting a city like Munich makes you realise how undiscerning we are in this country when it comes to food. When they say Italian, they don't mean popping down to Pizza Hut or Cafe Uno. And with every street having a bakery serving endless varieties of bread, you might just come back feeling slightly dissatisfied with the UK's choice of either Hovis wholemeal or white. On top of that, you're guaranteed huge portions at a fraction of the price we are used to paying. With a lively nightlife as well, ranging from chic nightclubs to more down-to-earth bars serving great food, Munich is perhaps the most liveable city I have visited, and should feature on your list of places to go, and not just during Oktoberfest!