Features

Ghana - Pearl of West Africa

by William "Gobbo" Dobson

Often referred to as the pearl of Africa due to its relative stability as compared to the rest of the region (in fact in 2009 it was awarded the title 'Least Failed State in Africa', although that doesn't really say much), Ghana offers a fantastic amount for more adventurous tourists. Having celebrated its 50th anniversary of independence in 2007, the former colony known as Gold Coast, is certainly now (miraculously when compared to much of the region) a stable democracy.

The capital Accra is a great place to start any trip, and indeed the region as a whole. Like most sub-Saharan African cities, there are annoyances and hassles, but these are mostly limited to traffic and overcrowdedness. Yet, the people are friendly, there is a decent nightlife (Camps Sports Bar and Restaurant is brilliant with a weekly pub quiz and a karaoke night, and Tantra nightclub is always good fun), and there is fantastic food.

One can try the local favourites such as delicious jolof rice, red red, and spicy fried chicken. However, if you want to treat yourself, then Monsoon (on a road known as Oxford Street, although bizarrely, in reality that isn't the case) is an oasis of calm. All the food is imported from South Africa (including the vegetables), and they offer an interesting mix of meats you might not otherwise try such as ostrich or warthog, in addition to more normal beasts such as beef or lamb, all perfectly cooked and served with great wines or cocktails. They have also recently opened up a sushi bar next door.

However, while Accra has its charms, in reality there isn't much to see (except if you followed English football in the 90s: you can go and visit Tony Yeboah at the hotel he now runs with his wife). Head out of the city on the other hand and it is a different story. West down the coast towards Côte d'Ivoire are lovely beaches (a stay at Big Millies beachside hostel is a must), old colonial castles (the one at Cape Coast in particular where the fantastic museum gives you a moving insight into the history of slave trading in the region) and stunning scenery.

And, to really experience the country, you must head up north, past the Kumasi (the second city, and traditional Ashanti capital) towards Burkina Faso. There are so many places worth seeing, but two musts are Mole National Park and Paga. Both are a good trek from Accra but well worth the effort.

Mole, which interestingly is situated just a few miles from one of (if not the) oldest mosques in Western Africa, made almost entirely from mud (pictured), gives you a completely different safari experience from the more obvious destinations. While the accommodation, which is limited to one (very) basic hotel, might not appeal to those who crave their creature comforts (if you do, don't go to West Africa), the national park is breathtaking.

Watching the sunset, whilst drinking the delicious and local Star Beer, you can see numerous varieties of animals who come to drink at the crocodile-infested watering hole. If you're lucky, the animals might even come a bit closer. Elephants drinking out of the swimming pool, or baboons causing havoc in the women's toilets aren't uncommon sights. The park is huge (40 miles squared) and there is no real infrastructure, so if you want to explore further then hiking followed by camping is the answer. With the chance to see hippos it is certainly not an unattractive option, and a more daring alternative to being driven around Kruger National Park in an armoured 4x4.

Even further to the north, right on the Burkina Faso border is the bizarre and wonderful town of Paga, which must be the only place in the world where you can pull the tail or sit on a full-sized crocodile and live to tell the story (pictured). Women are even given the opportunity to climb a viewing tower with the priest, where they get the honour of lifting up their shirts and showing their breasts to these sacred animals. Having said that, I think that in most Western countries, people would have seen past this, and the priest would be locked away for being perverted.

Throughout the country the food remains delicious, although the butchering is poor! Be aware that ordering half a guinea fowl, while delectable, is less meat and more bone than you might imagine. Yet, the ubiquitous jolof rice (slightly spicy and flavoured with tomatoes) that accompanies almost every meal never gets boring, and the curry sauces that usually come with the meat are fantastic. The Moti Mahal restaurant in Kumasi is also home to the best butter chicken I have ever eaten!

While not to everyones tastes, as luxury accommodation is the country is almost non-existent once you leave the capital, for the more adventurous traveller, Ghana is wonderful. There is so much history, especially for those willing to delve beneath the surface, most notably with chilling reminders of the not-so-ancient slave trade, mainly in the forms of basic concentration camps. On top of this the people are genuinely warm, charming and fun and there is always plenty to keep you entertained.