Features

Germany - Rothenburg ob der Tauber - a little slice of Romantische heaven

by Cheryl Bouwer

Walking through the medieval gates of Rothenburg ob der Tauber, I find myself taking a step back in time. Cobbled streets, and higgledy piggledy half-timbered houses lean out to greet me, as the smell of freshly baked pretzels grabs hold of my nostrils and beckons me forward. This magical old town, situated along Germany's ‘Romantische Strasse’, is like a life-sized toy town, and offers the perfect romantic getaway.

In the Aldstadt, the cobbled street winds its way into the heart of the town, where, in the main square Marienplatz, I notice a group of people huddled around looking upwards at the Town Hall. The clock strikes on the hour and a portly little wooden fellow known as ‘The Meistertrunk’ pops out of the clock and glugs back a large jug of wine, as the crowd cheers below. According to the legend, in 1631 Burgermeister Nusch, the mayor at the time, saved Rothenburg against the warring Swedes by taking part in a daring bet that he would be able to consume 3.25 litres of wine in one gulp. In true German style, the mayor seized the opportunity and his ‘Meistertrunk' (master gulp) rescued this idyllic little town from its plight.

From here, we explore the patchwork of alleys which zigzag the town, leading us past some intriguing shops. The shops bear intricate golden signs, and one in particular draws me in, the world famous Käthe Wohlfahrt Christmas shop. A larger-than-life nutcracker greets me at the entrance to this magical grotto, and as I step in, the child in me darts around admiring the twinkling lights and decorations of this Santa’s den. Snow encircles a huge glittering Christmas tree, and handmade decorations crafted with the utmost precision are laid out on show. Even the life-size nutcrackers and elves with their cheeky grins and sparkling eyes come to life. I resist the urge to buy everything I see, opting sensibly for a hearty little wooden fellow holding a beer in the one hand and a pretzel in the other. He will have pride of place on my tree come the end of the year!

The afternoon sees a leisurely walk along the full length of the town’s walls. This is the best way to admire the scenic vistas over the town, and the surrounding countryside of the Tauber valley. A German bakery taunts us with its tasty treats, and we indulge in the local delicacy ‘ Sneeuwballen’. This dough treat, deep fried and covered in a variety of chocolate, is the perfect afternoon snack.

We also explore The Kriminaal museum, which hosts 1000 years of history, and is a must for those with a penchant for the gore of medieval torture. Packed over four floors, torture weapons range in severity and size, from the ‘baker's chair’ which served to punish bakers whose loaves of bread were too small, to my personal favourite – a lead mask depicting a swine, which was placed on a man’s head for using foul language toward women.

If guts and gore are not your thing, plenty of quaint shops line the streets, and for the best views of the town, climb the long flight of steps to the top of the Town Hall - this will give you an eagle's eye view! In the evening, the locals and tourists mill around the beer gardens and pavement restaurants situated near the main square. We start off at one of the local beer gardens to soak up some of the German ambience. Tapping my foot to the beat of the Oom-pah band, with stein in hand (I opted for the more sensible 500ml pint of beer, passing up the offer of the more generous ‘maas’, a full litre of the golden liquid!), we savour the fine art of German brewing. This forte of the German masters shows itself in the fine quality, and despite a night of indulgence, the next morning's hangover fails to materialise - a sure sign of a good beer, ja!

After consuming our ‘aperitifs’, we head to one of the bustling restaurants to feed our ravenous appetites. At 9pm, we start our ‘Night Watchman’ walking tour. Out of the shadows, a pillar of a man wrapped in a black cloak and cap, with lantern in hand strides towards us. His eerie tales start a riveting journey through Rothenburg's past, as we shuffle along the dimly lit streets. The town's oldest pub and building ‘Zur Holl’ (literally meaning ‘to Hell’) with its early 10th Century cellar, offers a respite where we enjoy a quick drink, before setting off back into the dark night. At the tour's conclusion, and cap in hand, the Watchman collects his dues, and suddenly we're back in the 21st century, as tour DVDs and souvenirs materialise from under his cloak!

With still so much of this area to explore, this really is one of Germany’s finest treasures, and offers all year round getaways. The eternal Christmas feel, combined with the charisma of a toy town, offers a true German love affair. If you find yourself journeying along this beautiful Romantische Strasse, make sure to visit Rothenburg ob der Tauber - the town with a mouthful of a name that will truly melt your heart!

All photos: Cheryl Bouwer