Features
Turkey - Shooting cans and naked mannequins: Istanbul
by Andrew Young
As a young boy, I used to try and imagine what Istanbul would be like – images of the Orient Express and characters from Arabian Nights would play a sepia cinema in my mind, with spicy smells, exotic languages, long-moustachioed men brandishing scimitars, beautiful buildings and a pervasive mysticism. So imagine my delight when (sans the long-moustachioed men brandishing scimitars), this truly magnificent city lived up to my every expectation.
Arriving at Sabiha Gökçen airport is not necessarily ideal (Attaturk is much closer) but it does afford one the chance to enter the city proper over the spectacular Bosphorous Bridge, thus crossing from Asia into Europe. A great alternative to getting the airport link Havas Bus (which goes to Taksim on the north side of the Golden Horn) is to use the public bus (service E10) which cost less, and will take you to Kadiköy water bus station, where you can connect to Eminönü on the south bank of Golden Horn. Why? Because you get unbelievable views of the Blue Mosque, the Aya Sofya and the Topkapi Palace, particularly at sunrise and sunset.
Istanbul, much like Rome, is topographically eccentric - that is to say it’s full of hills – and, with over 3000 mosques, minarets dominate the skyline, giving the city its overwhelming architectural character. Of these, of course, the Blue Mosque stands out as being quite simply stunning. As a devout atheist, it seems an obtuse statement for me to make, but there is something genuinely spiritual there – the intricacy and delicacy of the tiles which inspire its name, and the peace that pervades the private prayer area as the sun streams through the arched windows act as an effective antidote to the noise of the jostling tourists.
Very near to the Blue Mosque, the Byzantine monolith of the Aya Sofya looms tall. It’s a mecca for tourists, but does include valuable mosaics, intricate decoration, marble floors, and remnants of Orthodox icons inside. My favourite sight? Not really (blasphemy!) but I can say this – it’s absolutely spectacular at night from the outside. Lit up, it, along with the Blue Mosque, makes a stunning backdrop to a lively nightlife. So, you ask, where is the best terrace from which to make these observations for yourself? Well, although it’s not finished yet (we were allowed privileged access) the terrace of the Sah Bar gives a glorious view (Blue Mosque pictured), and is a fantastic place to enjoy a cup of fragrant tea, a cold Efes and some sheesha. Look out for Mehmet, one of the staff, he knows the best places in the area, and is keen to practice his English!
Topkapi Palace is another must see – this vast and palatial, well, palace, houses the finest in Ottoman artefacts and history, and strolling around its grounds gives a great vantage point over the Bosphorous. There are beautiful and ornate rooms, most amazing of which is the Harem, with its dark stories: one of the sultans, Ibrahim the Mad (or the clinically deviant?), tired of his gaggle of concubines, and so tied them all in sacks and threw them into the river – all 280 of them. He also fed coins to his fish…
Further afield, the Spice Market and the Grand Bazaar sit a world apart from more gentile European shopping experiences, with thousands of shouting traders, shopkeepers and shoppers all vying for space. Kebab smells, gold and aluminium coloured bespoke suits, typical tack and true treasures abound in this endless shopping warren. It's not a place for the conservative or claustrophobic, but totally exhilarating! If you are going to buy a carpet or kilim, enjoy the ritual - drink tea, haggle over the price, shake hands and feel satisfied!
There are a thousand other sights in Istanbul - Galata Tower, the Cistern, naked mannequins (I mean literally everywhere!), cats, the various bridges and other mosques of significance. Istanbul is massive, with over 16 million inhabitants, and has such a rich and diverse history, one could literally spend a lifetime there and not see it all. That said, I want to leave you with one last experience - the Aqueduct of Valens.
Dating back around 1700 years, this section of the 400km long Roman aqueduct, in the Fatih district, offers a truly unique opportunity: an enterprising Istanbullu has decided that this treasure offers the perfect backdrop to a shooting gallery. For 1TKL (around 40pence) you can take hold of one of his air rifles and shoot at strategically placed cans, bottles and other small targets. Notwithstanding the fact that there are people walking past in close proximity, the concept of using a national treasure in this way is so far removed from the "European" reality as one can get - it's a bit like using Stonehenge for paintballing…
Istanbul is an astonishing place - brilliantly friendly people, unbelievably inexpensive, modern transport systems (an air-conditioned tram runs the length of the city on the European side), outstanding cuisine (look out for sheep's brains), beautiful architecture, and an air of exotic abnormality that should shake any traveller from the fug of boring, stuffy, western European cities. As per usual, my parting advice is to engage with the locals - English is widely spoken, and hand-gestures will do otherwise - the Turks are the lifeblood of this great city, and you would be remiss to neglect making some new friends!
And now to try and remember what other cities filled my dreams…
Stay: Tash Konak hotel - one of the most elegant, friendly and well-situated boutique hotels I have ever stayed in. www.hoteltashkonak.com
Visit: Sah Bar, İncili Çavuş Sk, Eminönü, for great night time views over Sultanahmet
Don't miss: shooting cans at the Valens Aqueduct, Fatih District - take the Tram to Laleli, and walk 10 minutes from there.
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