Features

Syria - The road from Damascus

by William "Gobbo" Dobson

Much maligned in the western press, mainly due to frosty (to put it lightly) relations with the US of A, Syria is perhaps not everyone's most obvious holiday destination. Although wandering around Damascus, certainly in the spring months when the air in the old city is redolent with the scents of jasmine and orange blossom and the weather is glorious, one sees a number of tourists (mainly of the SAGA group tour variety.)

Get off the beaten track and it is a different matter altogether. There aren't many places on earth where you could visit a castle that TE Lawrence (or Lawrence of Arabia as he is more commonly known) described as “…the best crusader castle in the world”, and be the only people there. And Crac de Chavaliers (pictured) is just a 2 hour drive from the capital city.

Or if Roman ruins are more to your taste there is always Palmyra (Tadmur to the locals). An isolated desert oasis, the site is as stunning as any in more popular tourist destinations, such as Egypt, without any of the hassle, pizza huts and inappropriately dressed and overweight coach-ridden tour groups.

However, it is the two main metropolises which will really catch your imagination. Damascus and Aleppo (Dimashq and Halab) both vie for top spot as the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, and there are still places where, if it wasn't for the ubiquitous mopeds and satellite dishes, you can imagine that you've just been transported 2,000 years back in time. While the new city in Damascus is your average Middle Eastern sprawl of continuous yellow taxis, communist style tower blocks, unfinished building work and pollution, the Old City (Medina Al-Qadima) is a world away.

Impossibly narrow streets, coffee houses frequented by the older Syrian generations smoking shisha pipes while playing backgammon, and fragrant spice markets make this part of the city a charming and exotic place. A whole day can easily be spent in a continuous cycle of getting lost and found without any need to refer to a guidebook to discover what to see and where you are. Of course, there are still sights to tick off, as with any city, and the Omayyad Mosque (pictured) is one of the great architectural achievements of the Arab world. The Azem Palace is also well worth a visit, and now home to a craft museum.

Thanks to the Christian population there are also a few watering holes in the Bab Touma and Bab Sharqi areas where the local tipple, Arak, can be enjoyed, as well as surprisingly good beer and wine from neighbouring Lebanon. The mountain, Jebal Qasioon, which overlooks the city is a spectacular place to go for a drink. One can either sit in a restaurant with overpriced drinks and food, or simply buy some beers from an off license, get a taxi to the top, and enjoy the night time views of the city, and the expanse of green lights from the city's 2000+ mosques.

The vibe in Aleppo is somewhat different and more traditional, and it is really here that you feel you are in the Middle East as it would have been before Europeans discovered it. The souks compare to any in Morocco, without the constant hassle from over-touristed sellers only interested in your money, and the citadel, built during the Crusades, is vast and uniquely preserved. From the top you can literally see for miles.

The Syrian food is also a reason in itself to visit. Top restaurants in Damascus include Al-Khawali on the newly renovated Straight Street (of Biblical fame), and just nearby is the president’s own favourite, Naranj. Marinated grilled lamb with succulent pieces of fat which melt in the mouth (Shaqaf) is a delicious local delicacy, as well as the Mezzes such as hummous. In Al-Khawali, the meal is accompanied with Arab flat bread made freshly in front of you. If you are looking for something a bit more adventurous and cheaper (although at most restaurants you'll do well do spend more than a fiver) head to the New City, where the food is just as good, but the menus are augmented by dishes which most tourists wouldn't even consider, such as sheep's testicles or lamb brain salad.

However, it is Aleppo which is most famous for its cuisine, and any restaurant or even street stall will be sure to serve up fantastic food. Here, ground lamb with cherry sauce is a local favourite.

Syria's not perfect, and you'll be sure to experience your fair share of annoyances, such as arguing with taxi drivers over prices, or being stuck in a side alley while a jeep attempts to navigate its way through a space half its size. But as a holiday destination, there aren't many places which offer so much, for so little. It is also a great place to be based for a more complete assault of the region, with Beirut and Amman both less than a two hour (and £10) taxi ride away.